Swargarohini meant as “Stairs to Heaven” lies in the Saraswati range of Garhwal Himalayas in Uttarkashi district. Swargarohini range comprises of four peaks and Swargarohini I is the highest among them. While not particularly being high by Himalayan standards but still it had defied teams earlier from Canada, Sweden, Japan and India. The peak wasn’t climbed until the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering climbed the peak in the year 1990 during the training of advance course. The peak has fascinated mountaineers through the ages and being moderately high at 6252m is considered one of the difficult summits of Garhwal Himalayas. It has dangerous drops of thousands of meters, doesn’t have the direct line of approach, hanging glaciers and rock walls from all the sides. Therefore it requires technical expertise coupled with physical fitness to achieve a remarkable summit.
Swargarohini Peak expedition starts from Taluka and with few transit halts we reach at Osla(2900m). Here we shift the loads and carry on trekking to Ruinsaratal(3900m) through regular intervals of snow and debris caused by regular avalanches. Further we trek towards base camp located at (4300m) and will establish it subsequently. The load ferry and reconnaissance of the ABC goes on along the course. Finally we will fix our ABC somewhere at 5000 and settle on a safer spot, safe from falling seracs of hanging glacier situated on the top of a rock wall. At ABC we will train, ice craft some of the techniques on Bandar punch glacier to get familiar for upcoming hardships. We will get prepared for the route opening and fixing adequate ropes for safe climb. Soon we head off of forward to open route on small glacial slope and then on snowfield pitching sufficient equipments on difficult rock slants. Later in the afternoon we retrace back to the ABC and relax in our tents. Next day we will shift to the Camp I located somewhere above the rock wall. We move briskly to the ice slope where ropes have been fixed earlier and negotiate it easily towards snowfield. In between a patch of avalanche prone slopes are carefully traversed as many of the climbers had lost their lives on these unpredictable ascends. The prefixing of ropes enroute show no such difficulty but the danger of slipping on mixed slopes of 40-60 degrees cause some problems. Soon we will reach at the base of rock slope and fix some rope and climb this section with the help of jumars. As this rocky col is climbed it offers an excellent view of surroundings a rocky ridge and two steep ice walls and snowy tops along with Kalanag Peak, Bandar punch range. On the southern side a very steep fall of 20-25m and a bifurcation of glacier going and joining northern slopes of Swargarohini group. We will fix our summit camp at the base of the peak and wait for the night. In the middle of the night we make our ascent on snowy slopes which would be crunchy and hard in early hours. The snow plateaus will come and go one after the other restricting one by the summit views. These humps are never ending and continue obstructing the climb on the dangerous slopes. We will follow the northern edge of the ridge over heavily corniced humps carefully to avoid any steep fall. After the fourth hump we could have the first glimpse of the summit but still it is few meters far. A bergschrund below the summit has to be crossed through a narrow gap to the top. The top of the peak is corniced and is dangerous if any mistake has been made. We will ascend prudently on the top of the peak rest a bit glimpse the beauty of Saraswati ranges and offer some Puja. We will spend some quality time and return safely to Camp I and to ABC. The only real problem on the way back is the snow conditions which in the afternoon may be slushy and slippery. Along to that the risk of avalanches enroute may cause adversities. Nevertheless we will descend carefully retrieving fixed ropes pitons snow stakes back to the summit camp. Here we will wind up the camp and descend to ABC through avalanche prone slopes. By the evening we will reach the ABC and rest inside our camp having a hot cup of tea. Next day trace back the trails to the lower camps and to the last road head. Once we reach the final hours of our expedition we bid adieu to all mates and disperse to further destinations.
By road, Dehradun is well connected with major destinations of the country. NH72 connects Dehradun to Nahan (95 km) to the north-west, and thereon to Panchkula, Chandigarh and Shimla. NH 72 terminates at Haridwar, which is at 54km from Dehradun. Dehradun is located at a distance of 235 km from Delhi. NH72A links Dehra Dun to NH58 at Roorkee (67 km) and thereon south to Meerut (170 km) and Delhi (235 km). There is regular bus service from Delhi for Dehradun from Delhi ISBT Kashmere Gate.
An excellent rail network connects Dehradun to other important cities like Delhi, Mussoorie, Mumbai, Varanasi, Lucknow, and Kolkata. From Delhi- DDN NZM AC EXPRESS (2205)
Jolly Grant Airport is the airport serving Dehradun, located about 25 km from the city. There is a daily flight from Delhi to Dehradun
Highly advanced, Professional & certified mountaineering (Instructor/guide) from Himalayan Adventure Trips.
Skilled local Guide who has ample knowledge of the route.
Vegetarian meals on the Climbing. (Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner)
Cooks/Helper and other requisite staff.
HAF/LAF/Porters/mules for carrying common equipments (like rations/tents/utensils/and Central climbing Equipment)
Equipments – Tents on sharing basis / Sleeping bags / Sleeping Mattress/ Sleeping bag Inner
During Trek & Expedition we will provide you Dome/Alpine/High Altitude tents on twin sharing basis. Camping mattresses, kitchen tent, dining tent, camping stool etc would be provided.
High Altitude Porters to ferry loads, set up high camps, fix ropes etc
Climbing Guide’s support up to Summit
Butane gas bottle for high altitude cooking
Meals: In Hotel only breakfast will served. While on trek all meals will be provided. Meals will be freshly prepared and will be a mix of Indian, Chinese & Continental.
High Altitude meal: We will use tin packed food in high altitude.
Basic First aid Kit with portal oxygen.
Forest Permits, wild life fee and camping charges.
State Government Fees.
Personal Porters for carrying Climber’s backpacks
Any charges for carrying still/video cameras etc.
Personal expenses like tips, telephone calls, laundry, etc.
Group Gears for climbing e.g. rope, pitons, snow bars, crabs etc
Individual Climbing Gears and clothing; special individual mountain diet if any
Inner Line Permit.
Personal insurance or cost of emergency evacuation
Purchases of personal natures (like Alcohol, Soft drink, mineral water bottles/bottled or canned beverages/chocolates/dry fruits etc)
Food to/from the trailhead.
Any costs arising out of unforeseen circumstances like landslides, road blocks, bad weather, etc.
IMF Permissions, Royalty and Registration.
Liaison Officer Cost (included for foreign expedition only)
Himalayan Adventure Trips is a leading tour and travel company working since 8 years in the Northern Himalayas, providing a comprehensive adventure experience through well performed strategies awareness and precise execution of planning. We at HAT choose a well qualified group of Instructors Guides certified from well recognized mountaineering institutes, Porters who are companionable ready to help anyway, cooks of amazing recipes only found on the highlands and the accommodation so relaxing set up as camps. We are dedicatedly bound to give the best agile performance seen flawlessly than one claiming the untrue indeed.
As we behold the best set of staff ready to take on any situation with sheer knowledge of dealing at high altitudes, certain the rate of success on each climb by taking requisite measures accordingly. We believe in strong leadership which is needed on any of the climbing expedition, though we select the best climbers from various institutes/companies to less the rate of failure and bring out the best in people. Our motto is to achieve every goal set as a brand new voyage consisting of circumstances adversaries, triumphs ultimately resulting to an inclusive time of memoir. We are keen to attain every summit but we also are aware of the conditions held and varied in fraction of time up in desolation, however observing and learning since years we can predict and equip for a least change in the atmosphere or mishaps to help out the situation. The summits attempts are succeeded with high level of safety standards good weather and with a vigorous team ready to succeed. There are always chances of weather turning opposite delaying the summit attempt so we have a buffer day on each summit attempt. We wait for the weather and hit the target whenever the window seemed open, consecutively climb the peak approach the pinnacle then retrieve by taking optimum level of safety measures.
We not only have the instructors and guides well qualified in mountaineering but they are skilled in giving high altitude first aid and are trained to work in contingencies never meant to be occurred. Our Guides and Instructors are aware, active, educated, physically and mentally strong enough to take any measures/decisions required in any appalling conditions. We put all the requisite medications along with Oxygen Cylinders, Portable Oxygen and Oxymeter to check oxygen saturation/pulse rates in a distressed person. Although remember whenever contained Oxygen is given to someone attacked by Acute Mountain Sickness or any other causes, then he/she is retrieved to the lower or to nearest medical centre. Giving oxygen is last resort after that there is no going further or continue the climb, at least we wouldn’t allow someone to risk their precious life competing against the colossal acme in the name of attaining the Summit by any means.
During any of our climbing expedition you will get the most delicious food of all, consisting of regular Indian food with some Chinese, continental, Italian mix of cuisines. We select the best food diet required for a climber to sustain health and physical fitness during the climb, because food and water is the only energy which will keep you away from ails and sicknesses.
We choose the most possible level of accommodation during our expedition providing relaxed atmosphere and a sound sleep necessary to negotiate the huge task. Our tents are multi sharing with porch to put extra stuff and a comfortable space, bringing together the whole bunch of strangers inside a single shelter, with good quality sleeping bags liners and mattresses facilitated during the expedition for a sound sleep.
We use the most preferred equipment certified with international standards to assure the utmost safety and security of an excursionist. Climbing ropes, fix ropes (Poly Propylene rope) essential central gear, technical equipments are required while climbing, besides it we make certain that every member of the team is familiar with the gear by training before attempting the summit. The training starts from the day of reaching the base preparing you with precise knowledge of dealing in high altitude on Icewalls, Ice fields, Snow, Moraines, Rocks and Scree. The training is not just to remind the techniques but to sharpen and perform it flawlessly while the climbing on treacherous route. The process keeps advancing aside the approach of the summit, but remember expeditions are only for those who have adequate knowledge of a climbing a peak or have done prior trekking above 4500mtrs or have done Basic mountaineering course will be eligible to take part in such an amazing course of time.
Hence we work at our utmost potentials to bring out the best in people who want a hope of tranquility as well as true satisfaction to live a natural life which can be observed by such highland excursions. Being at treacherous heights often realizes one with the true inner soul felt minuscule and helpless before Mother Earth. So we want to bring their inner strengths out from the deep below to the pinnacles and to build bridge of faith amongst peoples from varied backgrounds pushing beyond their limits after the same acme. We always boast of the coordination and collaboration of thoughts amongst every mountaineer willing to conquer a peak patiently. Finally we provide whole bunch of precise knowledge and practice not only performed at mountains but also helpful in daily routine lives. Subsequently HAT is packed with all the mountaineering aspect of a lucid adventure trip welcomes you to join in our most enjoyed excursions waiting to be cherished.
Himalayan Adventure Trips is a distinguished adventure company in the Northern Himalayas as well as in Nepal and other parts of the country. We at Himalayan adventure trips work on least risk basis providing on with the ultimate escort during any kind of adventure activity. We are working as a tour and travel company since 5 years and own a good reputation of executing successful adventure programs in amongst leading adventure companies in Northern Himalayas. We hold a team of professionals and passionate mountaineers who are capable of tackling any adverse circumstances at any means. Our Guides and Instructors are skilled, certified from ABHIMAS Manali (Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports) an eminent institute of Adventure, which had given so many ardent climbers and mountaineers to the world.
We at Himalayan Adventure Trips organize treks, tours, expeditions, Cycling, Paragliding, river rafting, Skiing and much more in various regions such as Leh Laddakh, Nepal and in Himachal Pradesh. We believe in working with local inhabitant’s guides and instructors to provide an extra bit of knowledge about the surroundings and the terrain. We ensure that our every program should held with precise safety and security, thus with sheer pleasure each adventure seeker will find it a fair deal to voyage into the Himalayas. We opt the best quality adventure equipments facilitating with delicious food offering a companionable team of good vibes all at one place.
At HAT everyone is invited even if he/ she are beginner or a passionate adventurer there is a lot much to do out in the Nature. The exploration of nature will never stop or start until one assures a strong will determination to conquer the mountains. Here at HAT we make certain that every adventurer should achieve his/ her dream of climbing a peak, completing an arduous trek or cycling over highest mountain passes. We deem once you join in our any of the programs/activities you will be delighted and fulfilled with all our services facilitated in the Himalayas. So you can go to our website www.himalayanadventuretrips.com to get any of the information regarding your preferred program or if you don’t know about trekking/climbing you can contact us and we will recommend you the best option requisite.
As you know every mountainous excursion demands a precise planning, a planning with adequate pliability of observing and tackling situations, held all as by overcoming mind body and soul throughout the incredible Himalayan journey. Expeditions are tricky sometimes way far from coinciding, so it is necessary that only people with prior trekking experiences above 4500mtrs completed for 4-5 times or should have done Basic Mountaineering course are invited to join in the incredible mountainous tour.
Physically – An Expedition demands a lot of physical endurance, to prepare for each Expedition you should work out a month before joining a program. Build up the adequate strength in your legs by running and exercising every day to boost up your endurance. Stop smoking and boost your lungs doing breathing exercises at routine basis two times a day, which will help acclimatize the conditions while being resilient on the trek. Take active part in outdoor games, Yoga and any other cardiac exercises. There are times when you have to climb even for 20hrs in single attempt, that’s how you should be prepared pushing yourself beyond limits and it only can be achieved by defined training before and enroute.
Mentally – Mental preparation is key, equally as important as physical training requisite for an Expedition. Before joining any Expedition get pleasure from your daily routines, exercise, eat well, take rest properly and relax. Do not stress your mind by unnecessary predictions preplanned strategies about the Expedition. Be with your best friends to get motivated and relax your mind. Because pre expedition assumptions are not worth to worry, once you join the March and meet with rest of the pack will bring encouragement and excitement. The mental preparedness will build through the entire trip conditions and the physical drawbacks will affect the mind somehow. So pay close attention to various parts of the body and consciously let them loosen up as you climb each campsite. When you climb try to relax your body focus on the training you have done and focus on the trail or some precipitous route to negotiate carefully. Experiment with different ways of walking as a way of finding enjoyment beyond the goal of reaching a destination. The main key to stay mentally fit is to enjoy the route and not to pressurize the mind.
Technically- Gear up yourself with perfect size trekking/climbing shoes and walk with it. Use 60ltr. Backpack in a daily routine with as much weight as you can put inside it, so you will become used to carrying loads for long distances. Buy a Trekking Pole, Water Bottle, Warm socks, Thermals, Fleece, Feather Jackets, Cap, Trousers, Poncho, Flip Flops, electronics such as power bank, camera (DSLR or digital camera) along with you. Get a sling to practice the major knots used later on the climb.
Climbing a peak is always as staggering as its sheer challenges, opting combination of accurate preparedness will fruit you with glorifying summit attain. So prepare yourselves honestly and join in the Himalayan Adventure Trips Expedition to Mighty Swargarohini Peak Expedition
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