Region: Gharwal Himalaya
Total Duration – 32 Nights / 33 Days
Style Of Trip – Climbing
Maximum Altitude – 6904 m.
Grade – Difficult
Best Season – June to September
Accommodation – Hotel/Guesthouse; Organized Campsite
Food – On trek – All meals included
Thalay Sagar is the second highest peak on the south of Gangotri Glacier, in the western Garhwal Himalayas lies Mt. Thalay Sagar. A strenuous rock peak which presents sheer steep gradient on all sides, rapid winds and notorious vertical walls. It is such a hard peak that there have been many attempts from 9 different routes all comprising of arduous approaches. Mt. Thalay Sagar was first successfully climbed by an Anglo American team via northwest couloir and ridge and across the shale band of North face. The north face of the mountain has 5 different routes and most of the routes present rotten and dangerous rock climbs. This magnificent peak is ultimate destination for mountaineers who always find harder summit routes to test their limits. Although overcoming such a serious peak will reward one with the greater aspect of mountaineering. A reward never to forget even if summits haven’t been attained.
The expedition starts from Gangotri towards south to the base camp at Kedartal. In between a transit camp is held on the left bank of the Kedar Ganga at 4250m. Next day we will reach the base on the banks of Kedartal. We will spend some time acclimatizing, rearranging the ration and getting equipment ready. Simultaneously camp I (4900m) will be established below Bhrigupanth peak and requisite loads will be ferried. Further to the camp II route leads south through lateral moraines, boulders and rocky slopes of Thalay Sagar. The camp II will be fixed at the junction of the north slope of ice and rock of Thalay Sagar. At camp II (5300m) one can have clear views of the Jogin group of peaks towards the west and base camp area in north. Route to camp III or the summit camp climbs through ice, snow and rock wall requiring thousand meter of Polypropylene ropes. First we will climb an ice wall and enter into the crevasse zone towards south and then move towards southwest on a snowfield. After snowfield climb the north wall of Thalay Sagar using sufficient ropes on 60 to 70 degree gradient. At this stage most of the people choose difficult rock wall as a safe route instead of snow gully prone to avalanches. It takes days of effort and labour to establish summit camp located at 6400m. The summit camp is located on a snow slope at the junction of snowy west ridge connecting the Jogin group of peaks and the vertical rock wall of Thalay Sagar. After the summit camp a snow slope stretches for few hundred meters to the east and then a vertical wall to negotiate. Traversing this difficult rock wall will need extreme caution and expertise. Hundreds of meter ropes are fixed whilst climbing over rock walls and sharp snowy ridges. As we climb near to the summit one can see the base camp touched by the sunrays and in the meantime semi circled top comes in front. The Thalay Sagar is corniced on the north and other three sides are snow slope dropping to the despoils. On the summit of Thalay Sagar, Kedar Dome, Kedarnath, Kirti Stambh Peaks situate in the south and in the northeast lay Bhrigupanth, Chirbas and Matri peaks.
Once summit is achieved we will return back prudently via same route using fixed ropes. Soon we will be at summit camp and so on to the lower camps winding along the loads. At the base we will have a rest day and head on to civilization meet after onerous isolation of mountains. Encountering mass after days of seclusion in pure natural atmosphere will relieve one of being back home yet a feeling of leaving something precious will also occur to enthrall. Therefore the summit of Thalay Sagar will embark a vigorous mountain experience that will fascinate one each time to return back to the respective austerity of true Nature. Mt. Thalay Sagar will open a door to conquer more technical summits and will spur inspiration of mountaineering inevitably.
Distance by road:-
By road, Dehradun is well connected with major destinations of the country. NH72 connects Dehradun to Nahan (95 km) to the north-west, and thereon to Panchkula, Chandigarh and Shimla. NH 72 terminates at Haridwar, which is at 54km from Dehradun. Dehradun is located at a distance of 235 km from Delhi. NH72A links Dehra Dun to NH58 at Roorkee (67 km) and thereon south to Meerut (170 km) and Delhi (235 km). There is regular bus service from Delhi for Dehradun from Delhi ISBT Kashmere Gate.
Nearest Railway Station:-
An excellent rail network connects Dehradun to other important cities like Delhi, Mussoorie, Mumbai, Varanasi, Lucknow, and Kolkata. From Delhi- DDN NZM AC EXPRESS (2205)
Jolly Grant Airport is the airport serving Dehradun, located about 25 km from the city. There is a daily flight from Delhi to Dehradun
Highly advanced, Professional & certified mountaineering (Instructor/guide) from Himalayan Adventure Trips.
Skilled local Guide who has ample knowledge of the route.
Vegetarian meals on the Climbing. (Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner)
Cooks/Helper and other requisite staff.
HAF/LAF/Porters/mules for carrying common equipments (like rations/tents/utensils/and Central climbing Equipment)
Equipments – Tents on sharing basis / Sleeping bags / Sleeping Mattress/ Sleeping bag Inner
During Trek & Expedition we will provide you Dome/Alpine/High Altitude tents on twin sharing basis. Camping mattresses, kitchen tent, dining tent, camping stool etc would be provided.
High Altitude Porters to ferry loads, set up high camps, fix ropes etc
Climbing Guide’s support up to Summit
Butane gas bottle for high altitude cooking
Meals: In Hotel only breakfast will served. While on trek all meals will be provided. Meals will be freshly prepared and will be a mix of Indian, Chinese & Continental.
High Altitude meal: We will use tin packed food in high altitude.
Basic First aid Kit with portal oxygen.
Forest Permits, wild life fee and camping charges.
State Government Fees.
Personal Porters for carrying Climber’s backpacks
Any charges for carrying still/video cameras etc.
Personal expenses like tips, telephone calls, laundry, etc.
Group Gears for climbing e.g. rope, pitons, snow bars, crabs etc
Individual Climbing Gears and clothing; special individual mountain diet if any
Inner Line Permit.
Personal insurance or cost of emergency evacuation
Purchases of personal natures (like Alcohol, Soft drink, mineral water bottles/bottled or canned beverages/chocolates/dry fruits etc)
Food to/from the trailhead.
Any costs arising out of unforeseen circumstances like landslides, road blocks, bad weather, etc.
IMF Permissions, Royalty and Registration.
Liaison Officer Cost (included for foreign expedition only)
Himalayan Adventure Trips is a leading tour and travel company working since 8 years in the Northern Himalayas, providing a comprehensive adventure experience through well performed strategies awareness and precise execution of planning. We at HAT choose a well qualified group of Instructors Guides certified from well recognized mountaineering institutes, Porters who are companionable ready to help anyway, cooks of amazing recipes only found on the highlands and the accommodation so relaxing set up as camps. We are dedicatedly bound to give the best agile performance seen flawlessly than one claiming the untrue indeed.
As we behold the best set of staff ready to take on any situation with sheer knowledge of dealing at high altitudes, certain the rate of success on each climb by taking requisite measures accordingly. We believe in strong leadership which is needed on any of the climbing expedition, though we select the best climbers from various institutes/companies to less the rate of failure and bring out the best in people. Our motto is to achieve every goal set as a brand new voyage consisting of circumstances adversaries, triumphs ultimately resulting to an inclusive time of memoir. We are keen to attain every summit but we also are aware of the conditions held and varied in fraction of time up in desolation, however observing and learning since years we can predict and equip for a least change in the atmosphere or mishaps to help out the situation. The summits attempts are succeeded with high level of safety standards good weather and with a vigorous team ready to succeed. There are always chances of weather turning opposite delaying the summit attempt so we have a buffer day on each summit attempt. We wait for the weather and hit the target whenever the window seemed open, consecutively climb the peak approach the pinnacle then retrieve by taking optimum level of safety measures.
We not only have the instructors and guides well qualified in mountaineering but they are skilled in giving high altitude first aid and are trained to work in contingencies never meant to be occurred. Our Guides and Instructors are aware, active, educated, physically and mentally strong enough to take any measures/decisions required in any appalling conditions. We put all the requisite medications along with Oxygen Cylinders, Portable Oxygen and Oxymeter to check oxygen saturation/pulse rates in a distressed person. Although remember whenever contained Oxygen is given to someone attacked by Acute Mountain Sickness or any other causes, then he/she is retrieved to the lower or to nearest medical centre. Giving oxygen is last resort after that there is no going further or continue the climb, at least we wouldn’t allow someone to risk their precious life competing against the colossal acme in the name of attaining the Summit by any means.
During any of our climbing expedition you will get the most delicious food of all, consisting of regular Indian food with some Chinese, continental, Italian mix of cuisines. We select the best food diet required for a climber to sustain health and physical fitness during the climb, because food and water is the only energy which will keep you away from ails and sicknesses.
We choose the most possible level of accommodation during our expedition providing relaxed atmosphere and a sound sleep necessary to negotiate the huge task. Our tents are multi sharing with porch to put extra stuff and a comfortable space, bringing together the whole bunch of strangers inside a single shelter, with good quality sleeping bags liners and mattresses facilitated during the expedition for a sound sleep.
We use the most preferred equipment certified with international standards to assure the utmost safety and security of an excursionist. Climbing ropes, fix ropes (Poly Propylene rope) essential central gear, technical equipments are required while climbing, besides it we make certain that every member of the team is familiar with the gear by training before attempting the summit. The training starts from the day of reaching the base preparing you with precise knowledge of dealing in high altitude on Icewalls, Ice fields, Snow, Moraines, Rocks and Scree. The training is not just to remind the techniques but to sharpen and perform it flawlessly while the climbing on treacherous route. The process keeps advancing aside the approach of the summit, but remember expeditions are only for those who have adequate knowledge of a climbing a peak or have done prior trekking above 4500mtrs or have done Basic mountaineering course will be eligible to take part in such an amazing course of time.
Hence we work at our utmost potentials to bring out the best in people who want a hope of tranquility as well as true satisfaction to live a natural life which can be observed by such highland excursions. Being at treacherous heights often realizes one with the true inner soul felt minuscule and helpless before Mother Earth. So we want to bring their inner strengths out from the deep below to the pinnacles and to build bridge of faith amongst peoples from varied backgrounds pushing beyond their limits after the same acme. We always boast of the coordination and collaboration of thoughts amongst every mountaineer willing to conquer a peak patiently. Finally we provide whole bunch of precise knowledge and practice not only performed at mountains but also helpful in daily routine lives. Subsequently HAT is packed with all the mountaineering aspect of a lucid adventure trip welcomes you to join in our most enjoyed excursions waiting to be cherished.
Himalayan Adventure Trips is a distinguished adventure company in the Northern Himalayas as well as in Nepal and other parts of the country. We at Himalayan adventure trips work on least risk basis providing on with the ultimate escort during any kind of adventure activity. We are working as a tour and travel company since 5 years and own a good reputation of executing successful adventure programs in amongst leading adventure companies in Northern Himalayas. We hold a team of professionals and passionate mountaineers who are capable of tackling any adverse circumstances at any means. Our Guides and Instructors are skilled, certified from ABHIMAS Manali (Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports) an eminent institute of Adventure, which had given so many ardent climbers and mountaineers to the world.
We at Himalayan Adventure Trips organize treks, tours, expeditions, Cycling, Paragliding, river rafting, Skiing and much more in various regions such as Leh Laddakh, Nepal and in Himachal Pradesh. We believe in working with local inhabitant’s guides and instructors to provide an extra bit of knowledge about the surroundings and the terrain. We ensure that our every program should held with precise safety and security, thus with sheer pleasure each adventure seeker will find it a fair deal to voyage into the Himalayas. We opt the best quality adventure equipments facilitating with delicious food offering a companionable team of good vibes all at one place.
At HAT everyone is invited even if he/ she are beginner or a passionate adventurer there is a lot much to do out in the Nature. The exploration of nature will never stop or start until one assures a strong will determination to conquer the mountains. Here at HAT we make certain that every adventurer should achieve his/ her dream of climbing a peak, completing an arduous trek or cycling over highest mountain passes. We deem once you join in our any of the programs/activities you will be delighted and fulfilled with all our services facilitated in the Himalayas. So you can go to our website www.himalayanadventuretrips.com to get any of the information regarding your preferred program or if you don’t know about trekking/climbing you can contact us and we will recommend you the best option requisite.
Preparation for the Climb
As you know every mountainous excursion demands a precise planning, a planning with adequate pliability of observing and tackling situations, held all as by overcoming mind body and soul throughout the incredible Himalayan journey. Expeditions are tricky sometimes way far from coinciding, so it is necessary that only people with prior trekking experiences above 4500mtrs completed for 4-5 times or should have done Basic Mountaineering course are invited to join in the incredible mountainous tour.
So here are some aspects regarding Expedition preparation:
Physically – An Expedition demands a lot of physical endurance, to prepare for each Expedition you should work out a month before joining a program. Build up the adequate strength in your legs by running and exercising every day to boost up your endurance. Stop smoking and boost your lungs doing breathing exercises at routine basis two times a day, which will help acclimatize the conditions while being resilient on the trek. Take active part in outdoor games, Yoga and any other cardiac exercises. There are times when you have to climb even for 20hrs in single attempt, that’s how you should be prepared pushing yourself beyond limits and it only can be achieved by defined training before and enroute.
Mentally – Mental preparation is key, equally as important as physical training requisite for an Expedition. Before joining any Expedition get pleasure from your daily routines, exercise, eat well, take rest properly and relax. Do not stress your mind by unnecessary predictions preplanned strategies about the Expedition. Be with your best friends to get motivated and relax your mind. Because pre expedition assumptions are not worth to worry, once you join the March and meet with rest of the pack will bring encouragement and excitement. The mental preparedness will build through the entire trip conditions and the physical drawbacks will affect the mind somehow. So pay close attention to various parts of the body and consciously let them loosen up as you climb each campsite. When you climb try to relax your body focus on the training you have done and focus on the trail or some precipitous route to negotiate carefully. Experiment with different ways of walking as a way of finding enjoyment beyond the goal of reaching a destination. The main key to stay mentally fit is to enjoy the route and not to pressurize the mind.
Technically- Gear up yourself with perfect size trekking/climbing shoes and walk with it. Use 60ltr. Backpack in a daily routine with as much weight as you can put inside it, so you will become used to carrying loads for long distances. Buy a Trekking Pole, Water Bottle, Warm socks, Thermals, Fleece, Feather Jackets, Cap, Trousers, Poncho, Flip Flops, electronics such as power bank, camera (DSLR or digital camera) along with you. Get a sling to practice the major knots used later on the climb.
Climbing a peak is always as staggering as its sheer challenges, opting combination of accurate preparedness will fruit you with glorifying summit attain. So prepare yourselves honestly and join in the Himalayan Adventure Trips Expedition to Mighty mountain Thalay Sagar.
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