Indrasan Peak (6221m.)

HIGHLIGHTS

• Region:- Spiti Valley.
• Total Duration – 16 Nights / 17 Days
• Style Of Trip – Climbing
• Maximum Altitude –  6221 m.
• Grade – Difficult.
• Best Season – June to October
• Accommodation – Hotel/Guesthouse; Organized Campsite
• Food – On trek – All meals included
• Mt. Indrasan is the most strenuous mountain of the Pir Panjal range in Kullu valley. It is a jewel to success having mixed climbs of rock and snow slanting over to dangerous inclines. The frequent avalanche sliding on 80-90 degree slopes is among one of the challenging obstacles to negotiate throughout this astonishing course. Mt. Indrasan was first climbed by a Japanese group over south west face, by means of a rock ramp and a snow ridgeline. Japanese summited the great Peak but experienced a bad time during descend loosing fingers toe’s by frost bite. Therefore many of the teams failed to scale its towering granite walls icy slants, a perplexing route combining traditional Himalayan approach with an alpine style crest. After all Mt. Indrasan is among most technical peaks found in the country and owns a glorious history to intrigue the best climbers around the world to climb such a marveling peak. Another history has been added by an Indian team led by mountaineering institute Manali. They climbed it in 2007.
• The trek starts from Chhatru, a stopover en route Kaza. The trail at initial is flat and rises slowly steep on some extent. Our first campsite is at Shea Gohru, a beautiful site alongside the river flowing from Indrasan glacier. From here we will start climbing to advance camp through reasonable slopes of stones and rocks. We will settle our ABC somewhere at 4500m. And will transfer loads to the campsite. Further we will climb towards Camp I located around 5000m. We will ferry sufficient loads to the campsite and prepare and recce the route ahead. The camp 1 is located above the upper edge of ice-fall of Indrasan. Further we have to tackle a major feature of the Indrasan, a huge rock wall elongating hundreds of meters and then ice stage summit where God Jamlu resides. It is a sheer rock wall which defends Indrasan from invasions; only the lucky ones get a chance to attain the top by an inclusive approach. After proper planning and preparation we will start climbing towards summit camp located about 5600m. We will establish summit camp at the neve of the Malana Glacier and settle their for the upcoming days. The route ahead consists of dangerous rock wall, an arduous job to perform but we will take another route which would be found in the south face of the final peak. The major difficulty in this route is the overhanging rock in middle of the final peak. It requires hundreds of meter rope on steep ice wall and to succeed overhanging rock. We will launch an attack in early morning and continue climbing a steep ice slope and traverse rocky stretch on the lower edge. After straggling over rocky stages there is a steep narrow ice couloir between the hanging ice walls coming down from the summit and the rock ridge. Later we will reach the foot of ice wall hanging down from the summit. Then crossing over couloir we will stand on the main ridge and lead towards last ice cap to the summit. Soon we will be on the top of mighty Indrasan watching over peaks of Lahaul Spiti Kullu and the distant ranges in the horizon. We will spend some quality time at the top and return back to the summit camp carefully. We will abseil on some stretches to cover the timing and reach the campsite by the time. Later descend down to the lower camps and to the base. Wind up and clean litter around the camp and move towards the road head. Then drive to Manali and depart for preferred locations.
• The Mt. Indrasan is amongst the most difficult peaks renowned for its sheer summit approaches. The throne of thunder God allows one only if he has pure devotion and venerates the mountains. The one with pure determination can attain and sit on the Gods abode even only for few minutes.