ISLAND PEAK (6189m)

HIGHLIGHTS

• Region: Everest Region Nepal
• Total Duration: 20 Nights / 21 Days
• Style of Trip: Climbing
• Grade: Moderate
• Maximum Altitude: 6189 m.
• Best Season: Spring and Autumn
• Accommodation: Hotel/Guesthouse; Organized Campsite
• Food: On trek– All meals included
• Island peak is a decent 6000nder peak in the spectacular Khumbu Region in Nepal. The peak is called an Island by Eric Shipton because of its location and resemblance like an Island in the sea of ice. The Island Peak is an extension of south ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a col and this ridge rises to the south leading till the summit of Island Peak. It is a peak of ice and rock accompanied with huge crevasses requiring ladders to negotiate, 300m steep headwall and a exposed ridge at the top, a kind of pre climbing effort usually found on Everest climb. The Peak is also known as the training peak before attempting the mighty Mt. Everest which was first used by Sir Edmund Hilary and Tenzin Norge. The peak is still being used as a training summit and uses the same route since 1953. Island Peak has a very narrow summit yet is surrounded by stupendous walls of Nuptse Lhotse and Baruntse ranges and provides a magnificent scenery of worlds highest mountains.
• The expedition starts trekking from Dingboche and then trek to Chukung 4720m. At Chukung few days are spent on acclimatizing and climbing some of the optional mountains in the surrounding region. Then we trek through Chukung valley on well-trodden path of rocky and uneven trails to the Base at 5100m. At base camp necessary equipments are located on the route and fixed while each days climb helps build adequate strength to confirm summit. Although route consists of circuitous climbs on scree rocky formations numerous crevasses which require ladders to be used and steep wall of ice needing fix lines with the use of Jumar. When everything is ready to go the summit attempt start almost in the dark over circuitous rocky paths deep snow through huge crevasses and will reach at the base of the headwall. The headwall is not that steep which it looks daunting from far behind and is about 2 hours climb over snow or ice. Once reached at the base of wall we will climb by the help of pre fixed line and a jumar to the summit. After some hours of struggle the summit ridge is approached but one has to be careful  at this narrow and dangerous ridge. The summit of Island peak is airy and exposed allowing only 3-4 people to stand at a time so it is necessary to clip yourself with a safety karabiner first and then take a glimpse around worlds highest mountain ranges. Atop one cans see Nuptse (7879m), Lhotse (8501m), Lhotse middle Peak (8410m), Lhotse Shar (8383m) circling to the north, Makalu (8475m) in the east and AmaDablam and Baruntse in the south. Soon the triumph is over and the difficult task of getting down starts by abseiling on melted snow and ice. Once reached at the base of the wall descend carefully as the snow have melted and the ladders fixed on the huge crevasses might had loosened. So follow all the climbing principles performed earlier during ascend. After negotiating all the obstacles we will reach at the base camp. Following day trek back to Chukung and back to the road head.
• The Island Peak expedition is not just about climbing a mountain but affording mind blowing vistas of the Giant Himalayas of Chukung Valley in Khumbu region. It gives one a chance to encounter one of the worlds highest mountains in 360 degree view. The Island Peak itself is not a tough climbing but demands basic technical abilities to conquer it. In the end the Island Peak should be an impeccable choice for those willing to climb a technical 6000m Himalayan Peak and getting on a spectacular airy ridge of an Island.
• Get set go for this 20 nights and 21 days trek and explore nature when you get to the top of Island Peak that includes a pleasant scramble, a tricky rock ridge, and then a wonderful glacier.