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Swargarohini Peak Expedition (6252m.)

Taluka, Uttrakhand


20 Night / 21 Days

Tour Type

Specific Tour

Group Size

12 people





  • Swargarohini meant as “Stairs to Heaven” lies in the Saraswati range of Garhwal Himalayas in Uttarkashi district. Swargarohini range comprises of four peaks and Swargarohini I is the highest among them. While not particularly being high by Himalayan standards but still it had defied teams earlier from Canada, Sweden, Japan and India. The peak wasn’t climbed until the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering climbed the peak in the year 1990 during the training of advance course. The peak has fascinated mountaineers through the ages and being moderately high at 6252m is considered one of the difficult summits of Garhwal Himalayas. It has dangerous drops of thousands of meters, doesn’t have the direct line of approach, hanging glaciers and rock walls from all the sides. Therefore it requires technical expertise coupled with physical fitness to achieve a remarkable summit.
  • Swargarohini Peak expedition starts from Taluka and with few transit halts we reach at Osla(2900m). Here we shift the loads and carry on trekking to Ruinsaratal(3900m) through regular intervals of snow and debris caused by regular avalanches. Further we trek towards base camp located at (4300m) and will establish it subsequently. The load ferry and reconnaissance of the ABC goes on along the course. Finally we will fix our ABC somewhere at 5000 and settle on a safer spot, safe from falling seracs of hanging glacier situated on the top of a rock wall. At ABC we will train, ice craft some of the techniques on Bandar punch glacier to get familiar for upcoming hardships. We will get prepared for the route opening and fixing adequate ropes for safe climb. Soon we head off of forward to open route on small glacial slope and then on snowfield pitching sufficient equipment's on difficult rock slants. Later in the afternoon we retrace back to the ABC and relax in our tents. Next day we will shift to the Camp I located somewhere above the rock wall. We move briskly to the ice slope where ropes have been fixed earlier and negotiate it easily towards snowfield. In between a patch of avalanche prone slopes are carefully traversed as many of the climbers had lost their lives on these unpredictable ascends. The prefixing of ropes en route show no such difficulty but the danger of slipping on mixed slopes of 40-60 degrees cause some problems. Soon we will reach at the base of rock slope and fix some rope and climb this section with the help of jumar. As this rocky col is climbed it offers an excellent view of surroundings a rocky ridge and two steep ice walls and snowy tops along with Kalanag Peak, Bandar punch range. On the southern side a very steep fall of 20-25m and a bifurcation of glacier going and joining northern slopes of Swargarohini group. We will fix our summit camp at the base of the peak and wait for the night. In the middle of the night we make our ascent on snowy slopes which would be crunchy and hard in early hours. The snow plateaus will come and go one after the other restricting one by the summit views. These humps are never ending and continue obstructing the climb on the dangerous slopes. We will follow the northern edge of the ridge over heavily corniced humps carefully to avoid any steep fall. After the fourth hump we could have the first glimpse of the summit but still it is few meters far. A  bergschrund below the summit has to be crossed through a narrow gap to the top. The top of the peak is corniced and is dangerous if any mistake has been made. We will ascend prudently on the top of the peak rest a bit glimpse the beauty of Saraswati ranges and offer some Puja. We will spend some quality time and return safely to Camp I and to ABC. The only real problem on the way back is the snow conditions which in the afternoon may be slushy and slippery. Along to that the risk of avalanches en route may cause adversities. Nevertheless we will descend carefully retrieving fixed ropes pitons snow stakes back to the summit camp. Here we will wind up the camp and descend to ABC through avalanche prone slopes. By the evening we will reach the ABC and rest inside our camp having a hot cup of tea. Next day trace back the trails to the lower camps and to the last road head. Once we reach the final hours of our expedition we bid adieu to all mates and disperse to further destinations.


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Preparation for Swargarohini Peak Expedition

As you know every mountainous excursion demands a precise planning, a planning with adequate pliability of observing and tackling situations, held all as by overcoming mind body and soul throughout the incredible Himalayan journey.

So here are some aspects regarding Swargarohini Peak Expedition preparation:

Physically – A trek demands physical endurance, to prepare for each trek you should work out a month before joining a program.  Build up the adequate strength in your legs by running and exercising every day to boost up your endurance. Stop smoking and boost your lungs doing breathing exercises at routine basis two times a day, which will help acclimatize the conditions while being resilient on the trek. Take active part in outdoor games, Yoga and any other cardiac exercises.

Mentally – Mental preparation is key, equally as important as physical training requisite for a trek. Before joining any trek take pleasure in your daily routines, eat well, take rest properly and relax. Do not stress your mind by unnecessary predictions about the trek. Be with your best friends to get motivated and relax your mind. Because pre trek assumptions are not worthy because once you join the trek and meet with rest of the pack will bring encouragement and excitement. The mental preparedness will build through the entire trek conditions. And the physical drawbacks will affect the mind. So pay close attention to various parts of the body and consciously let them loosen up as you trek. When you trek try to relax your body, especially your hips. If you’re on a winding downhill trail or on a panicking slant, think of each step as part of a simple dance and enjoy the natural rhythms that the terrain and your body can find together cautiously. Experiment with different ways of walking as a way of finding enjoyment beyond the goal of reaching a destination. The main key to stay mentally fit is to enjoy the route and not to pressurize the mind.

Technically- Gear up yourself with perfect size trekking shoes and walk with it. Use 60ltr. Backpack in a daily routine with some weight inside it, so you become used to carrying loads. Buy a trekking pole, water bottle, warm socks, thermals, fleece, feather jackets, trousers, poncho,  flip flops, electronics such as power bank, camera (DSLR or digital camera).

Detail Itinerary of Swargarohini Peak Expedition

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How To Reach

Distance by road:-

By road, Dehradun is well connected with major destinations of the country. NH72 connects Dehradun to Nahan (95 km) to the north-west, and thereon to Panchkula, Chandigarh and Shimla. NH 72 terminates at Haridwar, which is at 54km from Dehradun. Dehradun is located at a distance of 235 km from Delhi. NH72A links Dehra Dun to NH58 at Roorkee (67 km) and thereon south to Meerut (170 km) and Delhi (235 km). There is regular bus service from Delhi for Dehradun from Delhi ISBT Kashmere Gate.

Nearest Railway Station:-

An excellent rail network connects Dehradun to other important cities like Delhi, Mussoorie, Mumbai, Varanasi, Lucknow, and Kolkata. From Delhi- DDN NZM AC EXPRESS (2205)

Nearest Airport:-

Jolly Grant Airport is the airport serving Dehradun, located about 25 km from the city. There is a daily flight from Delhi to Dehradun

Things To Pack

Trekking Pants, Thick warm Lowers
Windproof jacket, Down feather Jacket preferably with a hood
Warm and thick Fleece.
Full-sleeve Woolen sweater
Thermal inner wear (upper & lower).
Woolen cap, Woolen Gloves, Woolen socks & regular socks (3-4 pairs).
Scarf/Muffler (optional), Balaclava or a woolen cap.
Comfortable Trekking/Hiking shoes (shoes with a thick sole are recommended).
Lightweight Towel(1 unit).
Toilet Paper (plenty).
Wet-Tissue Papers(plenty).
Lightweight floaters/sandals/slippers Raincoat / Poncho, Small light weight Towel.
Water bottle.
Sunscreen Lotion.
Cap to keep the intense sun away from your face, Sunglasses.
Walking stick / Trekking Pole, Head Torch / Flashlight (with extra batteries).
Medicines (if requiring any particular medication).
Personal toiletries.
Day pack/small bag which you will Carry on your back every day and keep your essentials in it.
Camera with charged batteries.


  • Highly advanced, Professional & certified mountaineering (Instructor/guide) from Himalayan Adventure Trips.
  • Skilled local Guide who has ample knowledge of the route.
  • Vegetarian meals on the Climbing. (Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner)
  • Cooks/Helper and other requisite staff.
  • HAF/LAF/Porters/mules for carrying common equipment's (like rations/tents/utensils/and Central climbing Equipment)
  • Equipment's – Tents on sharing basis / Sleeping bags / Sleeping Mattress/ Sleeping bag Inner
  • During Trek & Expedition we will provide you Dome/Alpine/High Altitude tents on twin sharing basis. Camping mattresses, kitchen tent, dining tent, camping stool etc. would be provided.
  • High Altitude Porters to ferry loads, set up high camps, fix ropes etc.
  • Climbing Guide’s support up to Summit
  • Butane gas bottle for high altitude cooking
  • Meals: In Hotel only breakfast will served. While on trek all meals will be provided. Meals will be freshly prepared and will be a mix of Indian, Chinese & Continental.
  • High Altitude meal: We will use tin packed food in high altitude.
  • Basic First aid Kit with portal oxygen.
  • Forest Permits, wild life fee and camping charges.
  • State Government Fees.
  • Personal Porters for carrying Climber’s backpacks
  • Air fare
  • Any charges for carrying still/video cameras etc.
  • Personal expenses like tips, telephone calls, laundry, etc.
  • Group Gears for climbing e.g. rope, pitons, snow bars, crabs etc
  • Individual Climbing Gears and clothing; special individual mountain diet if any
  • Inner Line Permit.
  • Personal insurance or cost of emergency evacuation
  • Purchases of personal natures (like Alcohol, Soft drink, mineral water bottles/bottled or canned beverages/chocolates/dry fruits etc)
  • Food to/from the trailhead.
  • Any costs arising out of unforeseen circumstances like landslides, road blocks, bad weather, etc.
  • Travel insurance.
  • IMF Permissions, Royalty and Registration.
  • Liaison Officer Cost (included for foreign expedition only)
  • GST of 5%.


20 Nights / 21 Days

Tour's Location

Taluka, Uttrakhand


Based on 2 reviews
Very Good
The Trekking adventure tours in Indian Himalaya

Shivam Bharadwaj

Very professional and well trained hiking company. The expedition Leaders are highly certified with all equipment and safety gear. There is enough food, logistical support and pre and post-expedition support for planning.
The Trekking adventure tours in Indian Himalaya



Swargarohini expedition

I climbed Mt Swargarohini Peak with Himalayan Adventure Trips in July 2018, it was a successful attempt and things were planned well. The staff is nice and we had some fun too. I really liked the local dishes they prepared and their willingness to help me for anything. I will definitely go for next expedition with them..
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