Mt. Thalay Sagar Expedition

HIGHLIGHTS

• Region: Gharwal Himalaya
• Total Duration – 32 Nights / 33 Days
• Style Of Trip – Climbing
• Maximum Altitude – 6904 m.
• Grade – Difficult
• Best Season – June  to September
• Accommodation – Hotel/Guesthouse; Organized Campsite
• Food – On trek – All meals included
• Thalay Sagar is the second highest peak on the south of Gangotri Glacier, in the western Garhwal Himalayas lies Mt. Thalay Sagar. A strenuous rock peak which presents sheer steep gradient on all sides, rapid winds and notorious vertical walls. It is such a hard peak that there have been many attempts from 9 different routes all comprising of arduous approaches. Mt. Thalay Sagar was first successfully climbed by an Anglo American team via northwest couloir and ridge and across the shale band of North face. The north face of the mountain has 5 different routes and most of the routes present rotten and dangerous rock climbs. This magnificent peak is ultimate destination for mountaineers who always find harder summit routes to test their limits. Although overcoming such a serious peak will reward one with the greater aspect of mountaineering. A reward never to forget even if summits haven’t been attained.
• The expedition starts from Gangotri towards south to the base camp at Kedartal. In between a transit camp is held on the left bank of the Kedar Ganga at 4250m. Next day we will reach the base on the banks of Kedartal. We will spend some time acclimatizing, rearranging the ration and getting equipment ready. Simultaneously camp I (4900m) will be established below Bhrigupanth peak and requisite loads will be ferried. Further to the camp II route leads south through lateral moraines, boulders and rocky slopes of Thalay Sagar. The camp II will be fixed at the junction of the north slope of ice and rock of Thalay Sagar. At camp II (5300m) one can have clear views of the Jogin group of peaks towards the west and base camp area in north. Route to camp III or the summit camp climbs through ice, snow and rock wall requiring thousand meter of Polypropylene ropes. First we will climb an ice wall and enter into the crevasse zone towards south and then move towards southwest on a snowfield. After snowfield climb the north wall of Thalay Sagar using sufficient ropes on 60 to 70 degree gradient. At this stage most of the people choose difficult rock wall as a safe route instead of snow gully prone to avalanches. It takes days of effort and labour to establish summit camp located at 6400m. The summit camp is located on a snow slope at the junction of snowy west ridge connecting the Jogin group of peaks and the vertical rock wall of Thalay Sagar. After the summit camp a snow slope stretches for few hundred meters to the east and then a vertical wall to negotiate. Traversing this difficult rock wall will need extreme caution and expertise. Hundreds of meter ropes are fixed whilst climbing over rock walls and sharp snowy ridges. As we climb near to the summit one can see the base camp touched by the sunrays and in the meantime semi circled top comes in front. The Thalay Sagar is corniced on the north and other three sides are snow slope dropping to the despoils. On the summit of Thalay Sagar, Kedar Dome, Kedarnath, Kirti Stambh Peaks situate in the south and in the northeast lay Bhrigupanth, Chirbas and Matri peaks.
• Once summit is achieved we will return back prudently via same route using fixed ropes. Soon we will be at summit camp and so on to the lower camps winding along the loads. At the base we will have a rest day and head on to civilization meet after onerous isolation of mountains. Encountering mass after days of seclusion in pure natural atmosphere will relieve one of being back home yet a feeling of leaving something precious will also occur to enthrall. Therefore the summit of Thalay Sagar will embark a vigorous mountain experience that will fascinate one each time to return back to the respective austerity of true Nature. Mt. Thalay Sagar will open a door to conquer more technical summits and will spur inspiration of mountaineering inevitably.