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Mt. Thalay Sagar Expedition

Gangotri, Uttrakhand


32 Nights / 33 Days

Tour Type

Specific Tour

Group Size

12 people


English, Hindi



  • Region: Gharwal Himalaya
  • Total Duration – 32 Nights / 33 Days
  • Style Of Trip – Climbing
  • Maximum Altitude – 6904 m.
  • Grade – Difficult
  • Best Season – June  to September
  • Accommodation – Hotel/Guesthouse; Organized Campsite
  • Food – On trek – All meals included
  • Thalay Sagar is the second highest peak on the south of Gangotri Glacier, in the western Garhwal Himalayas lies Mt. Thalay Sagar. A strenuous rock peak which presents sheer steep gradient on all sides, rapid winds and notorious vertical walls. It is such a hard peak that there have been many attempts from 9 different routes all comprising of arduous approaches. Mt. Thalay Sagar was first successfully climbed by an Anglo American team via northwest couloir and ridge and across the shale band of North face. The north face of the mountain has 5 different routes and most of the routes present rotten and dangerous rock climbs. This magnificent peak is ultimate destination for mountaineers who always find harder summit routes to test their limits. Although overcoming such a serious peak will reward one with the greater aspect of mountaineering. A reward never to forget even if summits haven’t been attained.
  • The expedition starts from Gangotri towards south to the base camp at Kedartal. In between a transit camp is held on the left bank of the Kedar Ganga at 4250m. Next day we will reach the base on the banks of Kedartal. We will spend some time acclimatizing, rearranging the ration and getting equipment ready. Simultaneously camp I (4900m) will be established below Bhrigupanth peak and requisite loads will be ferried. Further to the camp II route leads south through lateral moraines, boulders and rocky slopes of Thalay Sagar. The camp II will be fixed at the junction of the north slope of ice and rock of Thalay Sagar. At camp II (5300m) one can have clear views of the Jogin group of peaks towards the west and base camp area in north. Route to camp III or the summit camp climbs through ice, snow and rock wall requiring thousand meter of Polypropylene ropes. First we will climb an ice wall and enter into the crevasse zone towards south and then move towards southwest on a snowfield. After snowfield climb the north wall of Thalay Sagar using sufficient ropes on 60 to 70 degree gradient. At this stage most of the people choose difficult rock wall as a safe route instead of snow gully prone to avalanches. It takes days of effort and labour to establish summit camp located at 6400m. The summit camp is located on a snow slope at the junction of snowy west ridge connecting the Jogin group of peaks and the vertical rock wall of Thalay Sagar. After the summit camp a snow slope stretches for few hundred meters to the east and then a vertical wall to negotiate. Traversing this difficult rock wall will need extreme caution and expertise. Hundreds of meter ropes are fixed whilst climbing over rock walls and sharp snowy ridges. As we climb near to the summit one can see the base camp touched by the sunrays and in the meantime semi circled top comes in front. The Thalay Sagar is corniced on the north and other three sides are snow slope dropping to the despoils. On the summit of Thalay Sagar, Kedar Dome, Kedarnath, Kirti Stambh Peaks situate in the south and in the northeast lay Bhrigupanth, Chirbas and Matri peaks.
  • Once summit is achieved we will return back prudently via same route using fixed ropes. Soon we will be at summit camp and so on to the lower camps winding along the loads. At the base we will have a rest day and head on to civilization meet after onerous isolation of mountains. Encountering mass after days of seclusion in pure natural atmosphere will relieve one of being back home yet a feeling of leaving something precious will also occur to enthrall. Therefore the summit of Thalay Sagar will embark a vigorous mountain experience that will fascinate one each time to return back to the respective austerity of true Nature. Mt. Thalay Sagar will open a door to conquer more technical summits and will spur inspiration of mountaineering inevitably.


Expand All
Detail Itinerary of Mt. Thalay Sagar Expedition

Day to visit Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) for briefing and to full fill all formalities. Overnight stay at hotel.
Day 2: Delhi – Rishikesh.
Day 3: Rishikesh to Joshimath.
Day 4: Day for full fill all formalities with Local Administration & Forest Department. Overnight stay at Hotel.
Day 5: Uttarkashi – Gangotri
Day 6: Gangotri – Bhojbasa.
Day 7: Bhojbasa – Gaumukh – Nandanvan.
Day 8: Nandanvan – Kedar Tal.
Day 9: Kedar Tal – Base Camp.
Day 10: Rest day..
Day11: BASE CAMP: load ferry to the Advance Base Camp..
Day 12: BASE CAMP: load ferry to the Advance Base Camp.
Day 13: Occupied Advance Base Camp..
Day 14: ADVANCE BASE CAMP: Another rest day today for acclimatization, Go for a short height-gain
and return to ABC for overnight stay..
Day 17: Occupied CAMP 1.
Day 18: Rest at Camp 1.
Day 19: Camp 1 to Summit Camp load ferry. (By Train.)
Day 20: Occupied Summit Camp.
Day 21: Summit route rekey and rope fix.
Day 22: Summit (6904m/22650ft.)
Day 23: Reserve Day for Summit.
Day 24: Reserve Day for Summit.
Day 25: Summit Camp to – ABC.
Day 26: Descend – BC.
Day 27: Rest day.
Day 28: Base Camp – Bhojbasa.
Day 29: Bojbasa – Nandanvan.
Day 30: Nandanvan – Gangotri.
Day 31: Gangotri – Uttarkashi.
Day 32: Uttarkashi – Delhi.
Morning visit IMF to fullfill all formalities and debriefing, later in the afternoon group will breakup.

How To Reach

Distance by road:-

By road, Dehradun is well connected with major destinations of the country. NH72 connects Dehradun to Nahan (95 km) to the north-west, and thereon to Panchkula, Chandigarh and Shimla. NH 72 terminates at Haridwar, which is at 54km from Dehradun. Dehradun is located at a distance of 235 km from Delhi. NH72A links Dehra Dun to NH58 at Roorkee (67 km) and thereon south to Meerut (170 km) and Delhi (235 km). There is regular bus service from Delhi for Dehradun from Delhi ISBT Kashmere Gate.

Nearest Railway Station:-

An excellent rail network connects Dehradun to other important cities like Delhi, Mussoorie, Mumbai, Varanasi, Lucknow, and Kolkata. From Delhi- DDN NZM AC EXPRESS (2205)

Nearest Airport:-

Jolly Grant Airport is the airport serving Dehradun, located about 25 km from the city. There is a daily flight from Delhi to Dehradun

Things To Pack

Trekking Pants, Thick warm Lowers
Windproof jacket, Downfeather Jacket preferably with a hood
Warm and thick Fleece.
Full-sleeve Woollen sweater
Thermal inner wear (upper & lower).
Woollen cap, Woollen Gloves, Woollen socks & regular socks (3-4 pairs).
Scarf/Muffler (optional), Balaclava or a woolen cap.
Comfortable Trekking/Hiking shoes (shoes with a thick sole are recommended).
Lightweight Towel(1 unit).
Toilet Paper (plenty).
Wet-Tissue Papers(plenty).
Lightweight floaters/sandals/slippersRaincoat / Poncho, Small light weight Towel.
Water bottle.
Sunscreen Lotion.
Cap to keep the intense sun away from your face, Sunglasses.
Walking stick / Trekking Pole,Head Torch / Flashlight (with extra batteries).
Medicines (if requiring any particular medication).
Personal toiletries.
Day pack/small bag which you will Carry on your back every day and keep your essentials in it.
Camera with charged batteries

Preparation for Mt. Thalay Sagar Expedition

As you know every mountainous excursion demands a precise planning, a planning with adequate pliability of observing and tackling situations, held all as by overcoming mind body and soul throughout the incredible Himalayan journey.

So here are some aspects regarding Mt. Thalay Sagar Expedition preparation:

Physically – A trek demands physical endurance, to prepare for each trek you should work out a month before joining a program.  Build up the adequate strength in your legs by running and exercising every day to boost up your endurance. Stop smoking and boost your lungs doing breathing exercises at routine basis two times a day, which will help acclimatize the conditions while being resilient on the trek. Take active part in outdoor games, Yoga and any other cardiac exercises.

Mentally – Mental preparation is key, equally as important as physical training requisite for a trek. Before joining any trek take pleasure in your daily routines, eat well, take rest properly and relax. Do not stress your mind by unnecessary predictions about the trek. Be with your best friends to get motivated and relax your mind. Because pre trek assumptions are not worthy because once you join the trek and meet with rest of the pack will bring encouragement and excitement. The mental preparedness will build through the entire trek conditions. And the physical drawbacks will affect the mind. So pay close attention to various parts of the body and consciously let them loosen up as you trek. When you trek try to relax your body, especially your hips. If you’re on a winding downhill trail or on a panicking slant, think of each step as part of a simple dance and enjoy the natural rhythms that the terrain and your body can find together cautiously. Experiment with different ways of walking as a way of finding enjoyment beyond the goal of reaching a destination. The main key to stay mentally fit is to enjoy the route and not to pressurize the mind.

Technically- Gear up yourself with perfect size trekking shoes and walk with it. Use 60ltr. Backpack in a daily routine with some weight inside it, so you become used to carrying loads. Buy a trekking pole, water bottle, warm socks, thermals, fleece, feather jackets, trousers, poncho,  flip flops, electronics such as power bank, camera (DSLR or digital camera).


  • Highly advanced, Professional & certified mountaineering (Instructor/guide) from Himalayan Adventure Trips.
  • Skilled local Guide who has ample knowledge of the route.
  • Vegetarian meals on the Climbing. (Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner)
  • Cooks/Helper and other requisite staff.
  • HAF/LAF/Porters/mules for carrying common equipment's (like rations/tents/utensils/and Central climbing Equipment)
  • Equipment's – Tents on sharing basis / Sleeping bags / Sleeping Mattress/ Sleeping bag Inner
  • During Trek & Expedition we will provide you Dome/Alpine/High Altitude tents on twin sharing basis. Camping mattresses, kitchen tent, dining tent, camping stool etc. would be provided.
  • High Altitude Porters to ferry loads, set up high camps, fix ropes etc.
  • Climbing Guide’s support up to Summit
  • Butane gas bottle for high altitude cooking
  • Meals: In Hotel only breakfast will served. While on trek all meals will be provided. Meals will be freshly prepared and will be a mix of Indian, Chinese & Continental.
  • High Altitude meal: We will use tin packed food in high altitude.
  • Basic First aid Kit with portal oxygen.
  • Forest Permits, wild life fee and camping charges.
  • State Government Fees.
  • Personal Porters for carrying Climber’s backpacks
  • Air fare
  • Any charges for carrying still/video cameras etc.
  • Personal expenses like tips, telephone calls, laundry, etc.
  • Group Gears for climbing e.g. rope, pitons, snow bars, crabs etc
  • Individual Climbing Gears and clothing; special individual mountain diet if any
  • Inner Line Permit.
  • Personal insurance or cost of emergency evacuation
  • Purchases of personal natures (like Alcohol, Soft drink, mineral water bottles/bottled or canned beverages/chocolates/dry fruits etc)
  • Food to/from the trailhead.
  • Any costs arising out of unforeseen circumstances like landslides, road blocks, bad weather, etc.
  • Travel insurance.
  • IMF Permissions, Royalty and Registration.
  • Liaison Officer Cost (included for foreign expedition only)
  • GST of 5%.


32 Nights / 33 Days

Tour's Location

Gangotri, Uttrakhand


Based on 1 review
Very Good
The Trekking adventure tours in Indian Himalaya


I just got back from an awesome expedition to Mt Thalaysagar. A challenge of completing the expedition from the moment you arrive in India is ensuring you have local help to navigate each step. Few locals speak English and there are a lot of steps along the way until you reach Basecamp. It is imperative to have a local guide service on the ground to help you. HAT went out of their way from the moment we arrived in India to take care of us from point to point. Even when we changed plans, etc. They always adjusted to take care of us; Customer service is important to their team and it made all of the difference on the trip, which is hard enough!
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from 450,000.00 ₹ 445,500.00 ₹


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